September 20, 2024

The ancient Lion Rock in Sri Lanka was once the country’s capital

In the late 5th century, King Kashyapa of Sri Lanka was afraid. He had every reason to be — he had orchestrated a coup and seized the throne from the rightful heir, his brother. Fearing an attack, Kashyapa moved the capital and his residence to the top of this rock. It was called Sigiriya, or the Lion Rock.

lion rock
Aerial view of Sigiriya. Image via Wiki Commons.

Sigiriya, or Lion Rock, is a geological marvel, a massive column of granite that rises nearly 200 meters (660 feet) above the surrounding plains. This rock is basically the hardened magma core of an extinct volcano, which eroded over millions of years, leaving behind the resilient and imposing structure we see today. It’s also very old.

The formation is composed primarily of Precambrian rock, dating back more than two billion years, making it one of the oldest natural structures in Sri Lanka. Its nearly vertical walls and flat-topped summit were formed by weathering processes that sculpted the rock into its current shape, creating the dramatic cliffs and terraces that now form the basis of the ancient fortress.

Geology meets archaeology — another view of the rock. Image via Wiki Commons.

Of course, King Kashyapa didn’t really know all of this — nor did he care much. After killing his father and usurping the throne, he feared his half-brother, Moggallana. Moggallana had fled to escape assassination, but vowed revenge and was raising an army. So Kashyapa wanted to build his capital fortress in an unassailable place — and that’s what the Lion Rock provided.

Atop this massive outcrop, he constructed his royal palace, complete with breathtaking frescoes, and complex water systems. About halfway up, on a small plateau, he built an iconic gateway in the form of a giant lion. This lion-shaped gateway gave Sigiriya its name.

What remains of the Lion Gate. Image credits: Paul Mannix.

It wasn’t the first settlement on the rock. In the 3rd century BC, a few Buddhist monks lived on the rock. Archaeological studies showed that the area was occupied circa 3000 BC during the Mesolithic Period. But what Kashyapa built was something completely different.

The fortress of Sigiriya is enclosed by deep moats and tall ramparts. It features an intricate layout that includes terraced gardens, sophisticated water systems, and what is now the ruins of a royal palace. Close to the lion gate, the king also built a Mirror Wall — a polished surface originally coated with a reflective glaze so highly polished that the king could see his reflection as he walked alongside it.

Further along, the king adorned the place with frescoes. Located halfway up the rock, these frescoes depict beautiful, possibly celestial women, adorned in delicate jewelry and vibrant clothing. The artistry is remarkable for its use of color and the lifelike quality of the figures, which seem to float ethereally against the rock’s surface. Despite being over a thousand years old, these paintings retain much of their original vibrancy, thanks to the sheltered overhang that has protected them from the elements.

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The Lion Gate and the last climbing part to the top of Sigiriya. CC BY 3.0

The water gardens of Sigiriya are particularly noteworthy, showcasing the advanced hydraulic systems used by ancient Sri Lankans. These gardens, located at the base of the rock, are among the oldest landscaped gardens in the world, featuring sophisticated networks of canals, pools, and fountains. The gardens are divided into three main sections: the symmetrical gardens, the boulder gardens, and the terraced gardens, each designed with a unique aesthetic and purpose.

The symmetrical gardens, laid out in a strict geometric pattern, are the most striking, with their central pools and water channels that were fed by an underground hydraulic system. During the rainy season, the fountains in these gardens are still operational, a testament to the ingenuity of the ancient engineers.

Some of the well-preserved gardens at Sigiriya. Image via Wiki Commons.

Ultimately, King Kashyapa’s reign didn’t end all that well. His brother returned with an army and Kashyapa turned to face him. Kashyapa lost the battle and committed suicide, allegedly by cutting his own throat. This is not the only version of the story. In some versions he is assassinated by poison administered by a concubine.

Moggallana returned the capital to the previous location and turned Sigiriya into a Buddhist monastery temple which survived until the 13th or 14th century. Afterward, there are no archaeological records for centuries. Not much seemed to be happening until the 16th and 17th centuries, when Sigiriya was used briefly as an outpost of the Kingdom of Kandy.

A birds’ eye view of Sigiriya shows the fortress and some surrounding gardens. CC BY 3.0.

Today, Sigiriya is one of Sri Lanka’s most popular tourist destinations, drawing visitors worldwide. Sigiriya is a UNESCO-listed World Heritage Site and one of the best-preserved examples of ancient urban planning. In recent years, efforts have been made to preserve Sigiriya for future generations. Conservation projects have focused on protecting the delicate frescoes, stabilizing the rock face, and maintaining the ancient water systems.

King Kashyapa, a ruler whose ambition and paranoia gave birth to this extraordinary fortress, marked his way into history. Still, not all is clear regarding this magnificent fortress. Some historians argue that Sigiriya may have originally been a monastic complex, while others suggest that the site could have served different purposes over various periods, shifting from a religious center to a royal citadel. The only certain thing is that this is one of the world’s most spectacular archaeological and geological sites.

View from Sigiriya. CC BY 3.0.

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