May 2, 2024

Unearthing the Original Mediterranean Diet

Palaikastro, on the Greek island of Crete, is the 3,500-year-old Minoan settlement where ancient fish bones first captivated archaeologist Dimitra Mylona.

This article is from Hakai Magazine, an online publication about science and society in coastal communities. Check out more stories like this at hakaimagazine.com.
On the eastern end of the Greek island of Crete, archaeologist Dimitra Mylona steps out onto the dun-colored remains of the 3,500-year-old Minoan settlement of Palaikastro and thinks about the past. Not just the big-P past that is the fundament of her career however likewise the small-p past of her own route to fact through a discipline burdened by misconception and speculation. For the past 30 years, Mylona has been checking and refining her methodology, sifting through sites to ever-finer degrees. And if theres anything the past couple of years have actually taught her, its that the closer you look at ancient Mediterranean civilizations, the more the fish rise to the surface area.

Mylona is a zooarchaeologist– an expert in the research study of animal stays of ancient societies. Throughout one of her very first digs, in the same Palaikastro she now surveys, the presence of a completely different find captivated her– fish bones.

To retrieve minuscule finds– carbonized seeds of plants, bits of wood charcoal, bones of birds, lizards, and fish– they sifted the soil by using water to drift the tiniest of items to exposure. In the scope was one of the numerous small fish bones that were discovered that day, probably belonging to a small comber or a wrasse. Mylona gazed at the folds and crenulations of those fish vertebrae and mused: a story lurked.

After 30 years of research, a Greek archaeologist can tell todays fishery biologists how abundant the Mediterranean Sea when was.
Georgios Tsichlis/ Shutterstock

Peter Maerky/ Shutterstock

To prove her point, Mylona takes me back to her lab at SCEC to reveal me how something as simple as using water to clean and sift through historical deposits exposes a different world. Mylona lays out these bits of bones and tweezes them apart, comparing them flake by flake to the bones in her reference collection.

” The thing is, you do not need to have the fish to please many people who go to the Mediterranean. You will have the clear, blue empty water. You will have the seaside developments, this awful mess of concrete from which individuals will emerge to swim. Youll have souvenirs and postcards,” Pauly states. “But you will have no fish. And nobody will keep in mind that they were ever there.”

Paul Greenberg

Any talk of baselines in fisheries inevitably causes the work of the fisheries scientist Daniel Pauly, a marine biologist at the University of British Columbia. Pauly famously coined the term moving baselines back in 1995. The essential facility of the shifting baselines hypothesis is that each succeeding generation has actually a diminished view of what constitutes abundance. The memories of the Greek angler who may have captured 100 sea bream in an hour are lost to his great-grandson who believes a 10-fish day is a terrific success. To comprehend the real condition of the sea with respect to the historic standard, I call Pauly.

All of these deteriorations to a once-productive marine food system are taking place in part due to the fact that, with the exception of small coastal neighborhoods, the rest of contemporary Europe no longer depends on the Med for its survival. If you were to believe the earlier work of other archaeologists, you could be persuaded that this was constantly the case. The sea might have birthed multiple civilizations, but thats not how early archaeologists and historians, like Gallant, pictured the past; thought of being the operative word.

Counting ancient fish to establish a baseline for classical fisheries might appear like a rather arcane, academic thing to do throughout a time of climate crisis and extensive environmental disruption. But standards are very important. You can not restore what you can not keep in mind. That stated, the historic baseline that Mylona is heroically uncovering is elusive. Even gathering data on the contemporary standard– what remains in the sea today– is an ignored science. Sounded by 22 countries that have actually fished with ever-increasing relentlessness, the modern photo the scientific literature paints of the Med is grim indeed. According to the Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations, in 2019, just 36.7 percent of the assessed stocks in the Mediterranean and Black Seas were fished within biologically sustainable levels. After the Aswan High Dam near the mouth of the Nile in Egypt was finished in 1970, nutrient circulation into the Mediterranean Sea from the Nile Delta has actually been curtailed, shifting the nature of plankton flowers and possibly the totality of the marine food web. Numerous other dams throughout the region have actually done comparable damage.

In spite of the difficulty, Mylona has actually been consistent. And the result of all this laborious work was revelatory. At Palaikastro, where fish bones initially entered her vision, the 4 large fish bones that were handpicked in one of SCECs buildings were complemented by 4,000 more when water flotation took location. When Greek archaeologists applied the exact same methodology to seaside sites in the Aegean and even in numerous inland locations, fish bones were uncovered by the hundreds or thousands in nearly every location. Fish were clearly a vital part of the ancient Greek diet: a vast underestimation of the importance of the sea as a source of food had actually occurred.

” The thing is that most fish bones are small, particularly in this part of the world. Small fish predominate,” she says. Even the bigger fish, a grouper of 7 kilograms, for instance, leave bones that may be no larger than 2 centimeters. “You cant easily see them in the course of an excavation. If you do it out in the open, if the light is not right, and if you are really hot and exhausted, you might not see it.”

And what will take place if we never ever improve our understanding of the historical standard and use it to set healing goals for fish abundance and variety?

Having actually originated from a region in northern Greece where fish is an important part of modern-day diet plans, Mylona felt something was askew with this approach. Over the course of the next 10 years– while making a masters and a PhD at the universities of Sheffield, York, and Southampton, and shuttling back to a growing household on Crete– Mylona started putting together the tools she would need to prove the hypothesis of a fishier Mediterranean.

This is all part of what is frequently called the Mediterranean Exception. Koutrakis needs the equivalent of Mylonas water flotation method for sifting the little bones of contemporary Greek fisheries, and he works toward that.

Setting out to the University of Sheffield in England in the early 1990s for graduate work, Mylona instantly felt resistance to her newfound focus. Her graduate manager encouraged her versus dedicating to a fish bone masters degree, instead advising her to specialize in the analysis of mammal bones. Fish bones were a dead end, he preserved.

Mylona at an archaeology website on Crete.

” The option is to have excellent scientific data,” Koutrakis concludes. And slowly that information is being amassed. “Since 2017, EU policies require more effort on the quality of information collected. Scientific working groups are putting in more effort in examining more stocks in order to know where the problem is,” Koutrakis informs me. But is this enough? Will the spaces be filled too late? Will Mediterraneans lose what stays of their biological heritage prior to we have anything that resembles what theyre now just beginning to comprehend is the historical standard?

While field excavation is typically the most renowned part of archaeology, the real decoding of the evidence usually comes to light in offices and laboratories far from the website. And so, after we examine Palaikastro, Mylona takes me up along winding roadways into the hills of the Lasithi area and ultimately brings us to the headquarters of the organization that has actually supported Mylonas fish examinations– the Institute for Aegean Prehistory. The institutes Study Center for East Crete (SCEC), funded by the American philanthropist and archaeologist Malcolm Wiener, is perched atop a website with a sweeping view of the Dikti Mountains and has an architecture created to recall the airy halls of the Minoan palaces. As soon as inside, Mylona leads me very first past archaeologists and conservators patiently piecing together large jigsaw puzzles of pottery, then past an illustrator pen-and-inking makings of sculpture, and lastly to her workplace.

Paul Greenberg

During what was the busiest years of her life, she made regular trips to the central fish market in Cretes second-largest city, Chania on the northwest coast, and to moored fishing boats anywhere she discovered them. After digging them up months later once microbes and bugs had actually eaten away skin and flesh, Mylona searched, cleaned up, and submitted away the fish bones like books in a library.

” I do not accept this concept that the Mediterranean is a bad sea,” Pauly tells me. “This is what people always say– few rivers going into the sea to provide the nutrients. That these whales brought in nutrients from the larger Atlantic, and through their feces fertilized the sea,” Pauly states.

” Fish were more nonreligious,” Mylona discusses. “Because fish took part in the vignettes of everyday life, we find them a lot in the classical theatrical comedies. The fishmonger who is a cheater. Or the ignorant customer. Or the glutton who wishes to purchase all the fish in the market– a sign of someone who is absolutely undemocratic. In comedy, fish are used to communicate what appertains social habits. Fish are the car that sends this concept.” As much as fish were relegated to the comedies, Mylona and her reference collection show fish were a really severe part of society.

Invasive types have further plundered the sea. Since the Mediterranean and the Red Seas were linked by the Suez Canal in 1869 to eliminate a pricey shipping detour around the Horn of Africa, hundreds of alien types have flooded the Med, and the sea is now considered the most attacked on earth. On top of alien species eating their method through the Meds forage fish, some species, such as Lagocephalus sceleratus, are dangerously harmful, too.

Does this relentless and pernicious misapprehension of the value of fish in the Mediterraneans past have implications for the modern inheritors of the Mediterranean Sea thousands of years later? To penetrate this question, Mylona turns to her friend Manos Koutrakis who also went down a fishy profession course. Where Mylonas fish are in the past, Koutrakiss are rooted in the present.

” The Hellenic Statistical Authority was not considering the catches of vessels under 20 horsepower up until 2015,” Koutrakis states. It was only in 2016 when Greece created an online database to gather data with self-reporting of landings from vessels more than 12 meters in length.

” Fish are various,” she says. In classical Greece of the 5th and fourth centuries BCE, and probably also earlier, they were ceremonially slaughtered and consumed. Fish, she says, inhabited a place in society more carefully linked to the everyday, something that is only recognized when historical evidence is put in context of “softer” stays like ancient literature.

Romans developed the pens during their profession of Greece to support a fishing market that brought in catches live and kept the most precious fish until they might be sold fresh to extremely critical, and rich, consumers. Even with the financial investment in infrastructure made for the sake of seafood, Mylona informed me, the fish were important to ancient societies even beyond their role on the plate.

This is, obviously, the last thing Mylona wishes to see in her home waters. And so, she will keep on counting and cataloging, making a bone-by-bone argument for the tradition of a more abundant Mediterranean. “The interest coming from the European Union is more and more focused on environmental problems,” she tells me. “This is our primary problem and thats where our financing will go. Increasingly more we have to ask concerns that matter for today. The greatest obstacle for archaeologists today is to construct bridges with marine biology and preservation, to discover ways to utilize the archaeological and historic fisheries data in meaningful and helpful ways.”

Koutrakis makes his house in Kavala, in northern Greece, near the towns where both he and Mylona matured. Kavala rests on the Thracian Sea, a region nurtured by 3 big rivers and the outflow of the Black Sea. All this makes it the most productive body of water in the eastern Mediterranean. Koutrakis is the kid of a fisherman who worked those waters for 60 years. He feels the pulse of fishing he did as a child, though today Koutrakis does so as a scientist, collecting Kavala data with his team in the Fisheries Research Institute for all the fisheries of northern Greece. Koutrakis regularly communicates with industrial fishermen, parsing through fish auctions and diving the Med routinely in his quest to keep tabs on the national fishery.

Back in the 1980s, Gallant and others were focused on ancient economies and structure models to predict individualss dietary behaviors in the past. To Gallant, for example, the evidence recommended that offered the reasonably high population of the Greek coastlines, there was not enough fish to go around. Goat and sheep obviously filled the calorie deficit.

Mylona created a recommendation collection, a type of archive of skeletons, that enables zooarchaeologists to compare excavated stays with the bones of contemporary creatures.

Koutrakis is the first to acknowledge there has been a decrease in fish populations in the previous 50 years. Whereas pre– Second World War small-scale regional anglers, similar to their ancient equivalents, primarily worked the Mediterranean, the post-war era has actually seen a superstructure of much bigger vessels on top of the preexisting locals. This pressure has squeezed the artisanal sector to an ever-greater degree. The problem is that researchers– just like archaeologists pre-Mylona– lack baseline data on modern fisheries in Greece.

“In Greece in 1993, there was not a single reference collection for fish bones– none whatsoever,” Mylona states. “Zooarchaeology is not taught in Greek universities, so there are no university collections of fish skeletons.”

The hope and dream is a much better memory of the past that will influence our behavior in the future– a standard shifted back to something closer to the abundance weve lost.This short article is from Hakai Magazine, an online publication about science and society in coastal environments. Find out more stories like this at hakaimagazine.com.
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And so, after we look over Palaikastro, Mylona takes me up along winding roads into the hills of the Lasithi area and eventually brings us to the head office of the company that has supported Mylonas fish examinations– the Institute for Aegean Prehistory. “In Greece in 1993, there was not a single reference collection for fish bones– none whatsoever,” Mylona says. After digging them up months later on once bacteria and bugs had actually consumed away skin and flesh, Mylona searched, cleaned, and filed away the fish bones like books in a library. As much as fish were relegated to the funnies, Mylona and her recommendation collection show fish were a really major part of society.

At Palaikastro, where fish bones initially entered her vision, the four large fish bones that were handpicked in one of SCECs buildings were complemented by 4,000 more when water flotation took place.